You would have thought they had just met the devil. The tourists’ faces curled up in disgust.

It was on full display in the atrium of the shopping mall—the one that half-sits over Jewish graves hundreds of years old.

Christmas trees of all shapes and sizes slowly rose up and down suspended by a cable. Except these were no ordinary Christmas trees: they were upside down Christmas trees. Like those before Martin Luther uprighted them.

Believers stared in disbelief.